Shingle up to and across the base of the chimney to a point where the shingle tar-line is within at least 4 inches. Notch out shingles if need be. Note: Remem-ber, once you clear the chimney, the shingles will have to meet back up as if the chimney was not even there.

Center base flashing across chimney allowing 3 to 4 inches to extend past either end as shown. Remove notch from both ends and bend tabs around to sides of chimney. Nail base flashing in place ensuring nail heads will be covered by the next course of shingles.

Remove notch from step flashing and bend tab around to front of chimney. Note: Step flashings are generally used to terminate a course of shingles at a wall, chimney or dormer and usually start at, or near the tar-line going up. Next, nail step flashing to the roof only and at a point where the nail head will again be covered by the next shingle.

Notch and install step flashing on opposite side of chimney and naili n place. Cut shingle to fit over step flashings leaving approximately a 1/4" to 1/2" gap from the chimney for water drainage. Shingles installed on the opposite side of chimney should be cut so as to maintain the waterslot patterns. Again, once you clear the back of the chimney, the shingle courses must come together again as if the chimney never existed.

Continue installing step flashings and shingles on both sides ofchimney until shingle clears the back. Ensure shingle course meetsback up with the shingle on opposite side. Note: When nailing shinglesin place, a general rule is to place the nail about 1 inch above the waterslot. This helps prevent nail head exposure to the weather.

Cut and bend the last step flashing on both sides of the chimney and fit into place. For extra protection, this component can be set inroof cement before nailing in place (ensure cement will not be visible).

Cut shingle around the back of the chimney. This cut can be snug with little, or no gap.

Finish installing shingle course across the back of the chimney and meet up with shingles on opposite side. Nail in place.

Center cricket flashing along back of chimney allowing the ends to extend past each corner 3 to 4” and mark. Cut both ends up to your mark dotted line), and bend tabs around to the sides. Nail in place to roof only.

Complete the installation of shingles. Check your work thoroughly now and ensure there are no gaps or openings where ice & water can seep in.

For best appearance, install your counter flashing with the tops aligned all the way around the chimney. Starting with both sides, use a soap stone or chalk and mark along the tops leaving a slight gap at shingles for drainage. Align the top of the front and back counterflashings with the tops of the side counterflashings and mark Set counter flashings aside for now and proceed to next step.

Notch out counter flashing ends as shown and bend around to the sides of chimney. For best results, cut top portions flush with chimney corners then bend tabs around to sides. This will help prevent the metal from warping when bent. Install masonry fasteners through counter flashing and into chimney. Ensure metal is tight against brick.

Place side counter flashings along your mark and cut flush with the front counter flashing. Notch out the rear corner as shown and bend tabs around to the back. Insert 2 to 3 more masonry fasteners Note: Side counter flashings may appear to be wider as they are cut on an angle. For best appearance, keep tops aligned.

Mark rear counter flashing even with chimney corners and place along your mark. Install masonry fasteners. Check the tops of all counter flashings to ensure the presence of a “V” notch. As seen in the detail, caulk all 4 counter flashings along the V and at the corners Ensure there are no gaps, bubbles or air pockets for water to seep into.